Month: June 2012

One Week in Siem Reap (I Think We’re Stuck?)

Published by Jenn

Oops! We loved Siem Reap and so we stayed a week! And it took us five days before we could compose ourselves and get to Angkor Wat. I can’t say enough great things about Siem Reap. Perhaps it was a relative return to civilization (after Laos) but the social atmosphere, availability of commodities, amazing markets, handicrafts, charm, cafes, sense of social sustainability, friendly locals and curb appeal really wowed. Half pipes on roof top bars, buzzing Pub Street, food alleys, $1 tuk-tuk rides, corn on the cob stands, French bakeries, $9.00 bottles of Smirnoff Vodka and of course, Angkor What?! (and Angkor Wat). Riddle me this, what isn’t there to love about Siem Reap? That’s rhetorical.  We had arrived in Siem Reap just before midnight after a 14 or so hour bus ride and we eager to catch some zzz’s. We relocated the next day to an unremarkable hotel, located to the immediate left of the roof top bar entrance. After a few days of waking up to incredibly loud construction within the building we …

We Just Arrived in Cambodia and It Was Sketchy AF

Published by Jenn

Cambodia, what a trip. After leaving Thailand I was eagerly looking through Laos to the day when we would arrive in Cambodia. I wasn’t discounting Laos, but with a turbulent modern history and wealth of intrigue into the Wild Wild East of Asia, how could I not be chomping at Kampuchea’s proverbial bit? Getting to Cambodia from Laos, is described as uncomfortable at best.  From Vientiane our party decided that a midway pit stop would be needed to break up the 26+ hour bus ride to Siem Reap. Described as the transportation hub of southern Laos, Pakse was chosen as the destination of choice. What a shit hole. We boarded an overnight bus, much to Greg and I’s distaste (refer to the Koh Phangan entry) but were persuaded by our friends in the end. Part of me was eager to prove to them, in fact, how awful overnight bus travel really is (despite their glowing affection for it). The overnight sleeper bus was lined by double-wide bunk beds welded into its interior, with a slim …

Vientiane, Laos is the Weirdest Capital City, Ever

Published by Jenn

Vientiane is a capital city that doesn’t know it’s supposed to be anything special. I’ve read places that Vientiane is the Paris of the East. I don’t know who the hell penned that one because I have been to Paris, and I liked it. Well, it’s not that I didn’t like Vientiane it’s just that it’s a little devoid of thrill. Frommers describes it as the sleepiest capital city in the world. I would duly describe the people of Laos as the sleepiest in the world. The funny thing to me, is that should you walk down the large promenade of the Hat Don Chan banks, you will see a large set of billboards advertising the city’s grand aspirations. The boards paint a large and glittery metropolis with international brands and tall skyscrapers. It is so ambitious it is comical, warranting a ‘Yah, okay Laos.” So apparently someone in the city thinks Vientiane needs to be a bigger deal. But presently, traffic chokes the large leafy boulevards that characterize the city. There’s a ton of …

VVV: Viva Vang Vieng (Backpacker Ghetto)

Published by Jenn

Ah, Vang Vieng. Backpacker holy grail. The infamous river float and Friends bars. In comparison to what it really is, these visions are actually quite glamorous. Situated on a river flanked by some very picturesque limestone mountains, VV has a severe infestation of drunk and/or high young adults. Imagine if backpackers were urban planners and could design their very own ghetto. VV would be it. There would be extremely cheap beer and it would be 640ml. It will be named Beerlao and cost 10,000 kip ($1.25). There would be restaurants with tables that you can lay down at (hungover) and watch endless (read: ENDLESS) loops of Friends or Family Guy episodes. There would be bars with multiple platforms in mud pits and these bars would have menus chock full of Opium, K, Special Shakes and weed. Of course our backpacker engineers don’t quite have a grasp on plumbing or sewage management so all bar bathrooms would be absolutely intolerable. Our ghetto would have a lot of free whiskey! Whiskey shots for arriving at a bar, …

Luang Prabang is a Hinterland Outpost and I Love It

Published by Jenn

It is such a shame that Luang Prabang is tucked away in northern Laos, demanding a two day slow boat arrival or 19 hour overnight bus ride. I didn’t know it when I arrived, but this colonial gem was (for me), Laos’ redemption. Before I left for Southeast Asia, all I knew was that Laos was the youngest sibling of its four neighbors, and very up-and-coming with the backpacker scene. Travelers were flooding into this country to exploit its natural beauty and its laid back attitude. I felt like the last person I knew who hadn’t been to Southeast Asia, let along Laos. Thus, I had a very definite, albeit skewed perception of Laos. What I didn’t know was that the country is very much third world and borderline comatose. This is why Luang Prabang, in reflection, justified my travel time invested in Laos. The main street lined with old French style architecture dominates the centre of this picturesque city. In the evening vendors flood the street, creating a very colorful and animated night market. …

A Brief Introduction to Laos: “Wait, is this hotel an opium den?”

Published by Jenn

Like our backpacking forefathers we opted to travel to Laos by way of Mekong slow boat. The trip would take two nights, three day and commence in Chiang Mai, Thailand.  Greg was not convinced that this would be the best route, favoring the 18 hour overnight bus. My choice won out simply because he hadn’t looked into all of the options, sneaky sneaky me. Day 1: travel by mini bus to Chiang Kong, border town. Stop along the way at the Cashew Factory (for the second time, the first visit happened during our visa run to Myanmar) and the White Temple. The Cashew Factory pays all types of minibus tours to stop at their crummy store and ‘restaurant,’ though clean bathrooms are a redeeming feature. The White Temple was incredible. A stunning white temple adorned with small mirror mosaic bits, it appears to be fashioned out of wax and glitters radiantly in the sunlight. At the southwest corner you will cock your head at a unique design feature: a life size replica of Preditor buried waist …

How I Nearly Killed Greg’s Dream

Published by Jenn

Okay, a motorbike trip to Pai, sure to be a highlight of the trip. One obstacle: I have never driven a motorbike. Pai is a darling little town in the highlands, approximately 130 kilometers north of Chiang Mai. The journey begins with 30km on a Thai expressway and the 98km after the exit is characterized by 794 curves and a steep ascent through the mountains. The trip can be done in 3-5 hours from Chiang Mai.    One night in a pub, Greg heard that many make the trip to Pai by motorbike and he was instantly sold on the idea. Okay, a motorbike trip to Pai, sure to be a highlight of the trip. One obstacle: I have never driven a motorbike. But I can learn right?    Let me take a moment to digress. Greg and I have very different learning styles. While on Ko Tao, Greg had been griping about the amount of scuba diving theory and lecture we had to do before getting into the ocean. With Jason and I as …

We Spend a Week in Chiang Mai, Thailand’s Jungle Hideout

Published by Jenn

I’m writing this in retrospect and it is a real challenge to my memory! I should be more dedicated to collecting my memories but on the other hand I vastly prefer to blog on a proper computer (versus our i-Pod Touch). We left Bangkok a couple of days after the Gaga concert. During the five or so days we spent there before leaving for Chiang Mai, I managed to develop a sinus infection (A/C mismanagement perhaps?) so I wasn’t feeling very dandy. Once again we were staying just off Khao San Road and the heat and humidity was preventing us from much exploration on foot. Exploration was likely limited by our scepticism that legitimate taxis and tuk-tuks exist. We exiled ourselves, read books, watched movies and got on one another’s nerves. Bangkok was grating on us. It wasn’t apparent at first but we had both hit a low and getting off the Bangkok was the only relief. Opposed to bus travel and operating within a tight time line due to our Thai visas, we hopped an overnight …