All posts filed under: South America

Salar de Uyuni is Heaven on Earth (PHOTOS)

Some people need to sow their wild oats before they ‘settle down’. This idiom typically applies to fast romances with people; I feel the same way about places. One such place I was holding hostage from adult life was Bolivia. What can I say? I had been charmed by photographs of jeeps on flooded salt flats. Absent a horizon, they seemed to float, suspended in the heavens. “Greg, I’m sorry…this is a place I need to go before family life…” Of course that was last year when we were discussing our honeymoon. One year has come and gone, and I’ve got a new fixation. (India in case you were wondering; the list never seems to end.) But back to Bolivia. It’s dangerous business wanderlusting over a beautiful Pinterest photo or dreamy Instagram post. Were the salt flats everything I hoped they would be? You bet they were. I wrote about the first half of our Bolivia experience here – We are the crazy Canadians who honeymooned in Bolivia  – and I encourage you to read it. In …

We Are the Crazy Canadians Who Honeymooned in Bolivia

Text originally published in Canadian Traveller magazine, Fall 2016 Excuse Me While I Kiss the Sky Few places provide such an unworldly sense of advneture as Bolivia. From the mesmerizing way the earth meets the sky at Salar de Uyuni, to the star-splattered desert night skies that will simply play with your mind – to say a trip to Bolivia is ‘epic’ could perhaps be something of an understatement.   Bolivia has few qualities of a destination that attracts honeymooners. It’s landlocked, mountainous, high altitude, and in February it happens to be pretty damn wet. But no one can convince me to go elsewhere. Tucked deep in the South American continent, few travellers arrive in Bolivia by chance. I’m reminded of this each time I’m queried, “What brings you to Bolivia” not by locals, but from other travellers. It’s as if we are all ‘in’ on the secret but want to know who – or what – gave it away. My husband and I have come to Bolivia to lose ourselves in Salar de Uyuni’s …

Here’s Why Bolivia’s Capital Isn’t What You Think (PHOTOS)

Who knew Bolivia’s capital isn’t La Paz? Thanks Trivial Pursuit for planting that seed of misinformation during my teens. La Paz is the administrative – or – de facto capital, while the political capital is Sucre. So now that we’ve got that straight, it’s time to acquaint yourself with this gorgeous colonial city. Sucre isn’t exactly on the beaten track, so I had very few notions of what it would be like. Actually, I had never even heard of Sucre before planting two feet on Bolivian soil. Located in a country that isn’t hailed as a touristic destination, and buried in the heart of South America, I figured it’d be another dusty Bolivian city. Boy was I wrong. Just because my corner of the Western world hadn’t been to Sucre, didn’t mean the rest of Europe was so ignorant. In fact, Sucre was founded by the Spanish in 1538. What were the Spanish doing there? In short, relentlessly mining silver from nearby Potosí, which is counted among the world’s highest elevation cities. Sitting at 4,090 metres (13,420 ft), life at this altitude …

The Best Things I ate in Cusco, Peru

The food in Peru blew me away. Before arriving in South America I had set my expectations low, envisioning plates heaped with gallo pinto and guinea pig. Boy, was I wrong. In fact it wasn’t until we reached Peru that dining became travel priority numero uno. Here are our most memorable bites in Cusco, and where I think you should dine too: Pucara Address: Plateros 309 Location: Centrally located, just off the main square Price: Mid-range, very good value Website: Click here This quaint eatery is flooded with warm, low light and flickering candles. A few blooms sit atop each table and clay pots with small wooden spoons dish up Peruvian salt, pepper and granulated brown sugar. At S/8 per glass, the house wine satisfies budget-minded travellers though wine snobs might take a pass. Start with one of the many enticing soups; I recommend sopa de ajo (garlic soup with poached egg and a slice of baguette). Other options include sopa la criolla (a mild and milky Creole soup), sopa de quinua (quinoa), potato cream soup and aguadito de pollo …

Everything You Need to Know About Visiting Machu Picchu

I was surprised by how easy it was to travel Peru…in fact, it was almost too easy. (Who complains about that though?) In a brief 500 words, here’s all you need to know about visiting Machu Picchu. Trekking Machu Picchu Trekking with porters typically takes 3 to 4 days. A ton of operators can guide you along the Inca Trail, but there are alternate routes too: Salcantay, Chaski and four others. It’s worth noting the Inca Trail closes each February for maintenance. How to Visit Machu Picchu Independently You need to make your way to Aguas Calientes, a town tucked deep in the Peruvian jungle. There is no road access so you need to get there by train. There are two affordable rail companies: Inca Rail and Peru Rail. Trains depart from the town of Ollantaytambo and it takes about two hours to reach Aguas Calientes. Travelling in economy class the cost is $120 USD (or so) round-trip. Trains depart at various times of the day and it’s wise to book your ticket in advance. You can do so online, just make sure …

Sucre’s Drop-Dead Gorgeous Cemetery, Bolivia (PHOTOS)

With a full day of free time in Sucre, we first wandered into the main square, had a fresh fruit smoothie at the market and then, at the recommendation of our guide, made our way to Cementerio General.  Climbing the gentle uphill incline from the city centre was a strain given the altitude and midday sun. We arrived at the entrance, passing flower stands vending colourful bouquets waiting to be laid as tribute to the dead. Standing between two white columns – above which read Hodie Mihi Cras Tibi (Today Me, Tomorrow You) – we debated whether we were meant to pay an admission fee. (Not the case.) I didn’t know what to expect inside, but I immediately appreciated the shade and serenity afforded by the high walls of Cementerio General; true respite from the hubbub of the city. Strolling amid manicured walkways, past grand family-occupied crypts and niche-filled columbarium walls, my mind was flooded with questions to which I had no answers; answers I’d have to look up later. Without context my observations were superficial at best.  Mostly I was surprised to find such an elaborate cemetery …